Politics, economics, curiosities and trends: insights from ProWein 2024

Politics, economics, curiosities and trends that will drive the wine market in the years to come. Also an edition in many respects disappointing and reflecting in its own way the difficulties of the wine market, the ProWein 2024, which closed last night, in Düsseldorf, and which left some perspectives to offer. If, as we have already reported on WineNews, many Italian producers highlighted a certain desire to get back on track, including on the part of buyers (present in fewer numbers than in the past, Asia being almost absent ), the difficulties of declining consumption and sluggish economies almost everywhere are still being felt on the traditional wine market, in all latitudes.
In the spotlight, with the peace of mind of critics who do not appreciate them, and of Italian regulations that still do not allow their production, at national level, no and low alcohol wines stole the scene. Which, during the first 2 months of 2024, according to the data shown at the show, have already achieved +91% compared to the same period 2023, with growth of 7% per year until 2026, according to Iwsr – International Wine & Spirits Research, and of which Germany itself is the largest market by volume, followed by Spain, the United States, Japan and the United Kingdom. A trend also driven by Italian companies like Bottega, among the most important names in the world of Prosecco, which has long since launched certain products on the market, also offered again at ProWein 2024, and which in 2023, highlights Sandro Bottega, has already sold 200,000 bottles of “ alcohol-free products”, at +8% for 2022. Another recurring theme, which is increasingly impacting the market, is that of sustainability. Which, if for many continues to rhyme with organic, for others it is a broader concept, and which starts from the bottle itself. And among the curiosities, at the fair, there are those who, like Cantine Ceci 1938, among the leaders of Lambrusco, have launched on the market its aluminum bottle, light and recyclable, of course, within the framework of the “For The Future Sustainability Project. ”, after presenting the concept at Vinitaly 2023. The desire for novelty, in general, seems to be one of the key words, as also evidenced by Schenk Family Italia, which welcomed even more visitors from all over the world than in the past , with no less than 1,800 tastings (+12.5% ​​compared to 2023), presenting another curiosity: a bottle whose label changes color depending on the temperature, dedicated to Primitivo Ice from Masso Antico, a red wine designed to be drunk chilled, another small trend which is taking hold in a wine world which is seeing many of its “taboos” fall, notably thanks to the lighter approach of young people. The new generations that the wineries seek to involve more and more in projects like the Zonin1821 Group, which shared its knowledge with students, welcoming their suggestions for improvement, in Italian universities, and which in the future will be complementary to Zonin1821. Academy, an “internal school” to train employees and business partners. “With Millennials and Gen Z, we need to dialogue with themes that complement those to which we are accustomed, focused solely on organoleptic characteristics. And not with one-way communication, but by inviting them to enrich the sector and reflect on responsible consumption, the relationship between wine and health, sustainability, the social activities we carry out and new products such as ready-to-drink products or without alcohol. which accompany traditional proposals and can be the subject of experimentation with consumers,” declared the President of the Group, Domenico Zonin.
Among the confirmations, on the other hand, there is the passion of German and global consumers for Italian wine, the most present, although to a lesser extent than in the past, with more collectives and some defections among medium and small companies, at the show, as already announced in the days preceding the fair (but in sharp decline, was also the representation of France, which, in the future, will further reduce its presence by focusing strongly on the “house” event , Vin Paris & Vinexpo in Paris, editor’s note) Because, as Silvano Brescianini, president of Consorzio Franciacorta, reminds us, “Germany is a key market and ProWein represents an excellent opportunity to consolidate our presence in such a dynamic and exciting context” .
And in fact, there was no shortage of major Italian brands, from Angelini Wines & Estates in Caprai, from Romano dal Forno in Gini, from Umani Ronchi in Planeta, from Antinori in Banfi, from Bortolomiol in Cadis, from Albino Armani in Settesoli, from Carpenè Malvolti in Carpineto, from Zonin1821 in Mazzei, from Caviro to Cavit, from Cesari to Collemassari, from Cusumano to Donnafugata, from Cecchi to Frescobaldi, from Ferrari to Feudi di San Gregorio, from Fontanafredda to the Fantini Group, from Berlucchi to Gruppo Italiano Vini (Giv), from Tenute del Leone Alato to Leone de Castris, from Lungarotti to Masciarelli, from Masi to Michele Chiarlo, from Pasqua Vigneti e Cantine to Piccini 1882, from Rocca delle Macìe to Santa Margherita, from Bellavista to Tedeschi, from San Felice to Speri, from Tenuta San Guido ( Sassicaia) to Tenute del Cerro, from Terre d’Oltrepò to Tommasi Family Estates, from Tua Rita to Velenosi, from Venica & Venica to Vietti, from Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano to Villa Sandi, from Zenato to Zorzettig, including Consortiums such as those of Brunello di Montalcino, Nobile di Montepulciano, Prosecco Doc, Bolgheri, Valpolicella, Franciacorta, Asti, Manduria, Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Docg, Lambrusco, Lugana, Morellino di Scansano, Maremma, Doc delle Venezie, Doc Roma, Vini d’Abruzzo , Soave, Vini di La Romagna, Chianti, Chianti Classico and Alto Adige, even Istituto Marchigiano Tutela Vini and Piemonte Land of Wine, as well as large business groups such as Italiana Signature Wines Academy and the Italia del Vino Consorzio. A passion that also develops in the association of our wines with dishes made in Italy, as Ascovilo has chosen to do, which brings together the wine consortia of Lombardy, from Oltrepò Pavese to Lugana, from Garda Doc to Valtellina, from Valtènesi to Valcalepio, with the Consorzio del Grana Padano.
But at ProWein 2024, in more than one way, the focus was above all on the future. Like for example “Wine from Moldova”, which launched two wines, a red and a white, produced entirely under the control of AI (artificial intelligence) on variety, harvest, winemaking, blending, labeling and product communication. Or as the For the second time, 16 Ukrainian wineries will be present at the show, representing an industry which, despite its 30,000 hectares of vineyards mainly around Odessa and Kherson, with an average production of 66 million liters per year, has continued to survive in 2023 despite Russian bombs. , and managed to collect exports worth $9 million, according to data from “Wines of Ukraine”, released by ProWein.
However, while waiting for Vinitaly 2024, from April 14 to 17 in Verona, as announced by the Minister of Agriculture Francesco Lollobrigida, to bring together the ministers of the member countries of the OIV – International Organization of Vine and Wine ( which celebrates its 100th anniversary), at ProWein 2024, Arev, the Assembly of European Wine Regions, met, whose members expressed their concerns about the prospects of the sector (as evidenced not only by the slowdown in the market , but also, for example, the serious crisis in Bordeaux, France). , particularly on low-priced wines, which we have often spoken to you about in recent months) and which, also in view of the European elections next June, urged the political parties, “less than 100 days before the renewal of the Parliament”, to “honor their commitments on viticulture, by calling for real political will to reverse the situation”, for a sector which sees European viticulture finding itself at “a critical crossroads”. “Arev’s concern also extends to the decline in consumption in certain segments of wine and the devastating impact of climate change on vineyards. We support solutions that adapt production to these challenges, promoting close collaboration between regions, countries and the European Commission. Instead of looking for a scapegoat, Arev advocates a common approach to find lasting solutions: in this pre-election period, we call for an unprecedented mobilization of political and professional actors, inviting them to work together in the search for effective solutions to ensure the sustainable future of European viticulture,” emphasizes Arev.
But as always, ProWein 2024 was also an opportunity to compare the production of countries around the world. As, for example, in the traditional space of the International Wine Competition “Mundus Vini” signed by the German publisher Meininger, with numerous award-winning wines during the recent “Spring Tasting”, rewarded with the “Grand International Wine Award”. No. 34, currently being tasted. Among wines from 45 producing countries, Belpaese triumphed over all, with 639 medals (12 Grand Gold, 370 Gold and 257 Silver), ahead of Spain (535), Portugal (352) and France (296). , with the highest recognition obtained, among others, by wineries like Donnafugata, with its Ben Ryè 2021, Claudio Quarta Vignaiolo, with its Anima di Primitivo 2021, or even by Fattoria La Vialla, with its Vin Santo del Chianti Occhio di Pernice Riserva 2015, through Roberto Sarotto, with his Barbaresco 2019, but also by Fantini Group, with its Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2022 and with its Messapi Negramaro di Puglia 2023, with the cellar of the Usa Platinum fund which, explains “Mundus Vini” , overall, is the most awarded in Italy. And with the biggest Italian wine brands continuing to make headlines, including Planeta, voted “Wine Family of the Year” in the “Meininger Awards Excellence in Wine & Spirit” n°18, one of the most prestigious awards most prestigious of German wine, awarded in Düsseldorf, at the time of ProWein.
Assessment and highlights of a show which, despite some reluctance expressed by several exhibitors (Italian and foreign, editor’s note), was satisfactory for the organizers, with 47,000 professional visitors from 135 countries, according to official numbers of Messe Düsseldorf: “No other trade fair offers as wide a range as ProWein and all international wine regions are represented in Düsseldorf. We are delighted not only to see the high quality of the exhibitors, but also to see first-class people from all over the world coming to Düsseldorf, including an increasing number of executives with decision-making powers,” says Director Peter Schmitz, giving details of the upcoming Prowein 2025, March 16-18.